Get the instructions and pattern to create cozy pajama pants. As seen on the Marie show on the Hallmark Channel: http://www.hallmarkchannel.com/marie.
by Ellen March
Fabric (such as fleece, knit, cotton or flannel; amount determined by pattern size)
Safety pin or 3/4" elastic threader
Matching all-purpose thread
Click here to download the pattern; print. Tape together the pattern pieces, matching the grid lines. A size S fits up to a 36" hip, a size M/L fits up to a 44" hip. Cut out the pattern that best corresponds to your measurements.
Fold an existing pair of pajama pants in half lengthwise with the backs facing. Place the pants over the front pattern piece to determine the desired pant length. Mark a line 1 1/4" beyond the pant lower edge to account for a hem allowance. Cut the pattern along the line. Or cut the pattern along the "shorten or lengthen here" line and tape additional paper under the pattern to add length, if necessary.
For a size S, purchase 1 3/4 yards of 60"-wide fabric or 2 1/2 yards of 45"-wide fabric.
For a size M/L, purchase 2 1/2 yards of 60"-wide fabric or 3 yards of 45"-wide fabric.
If making shorts, purchase 3/4 yards of 60"-wide fabric or 1 1/2 yards of 45"-wide fabric for a size S, M or L.
If making gauchos, purchase 1 yard of 60"-wide fabric or 1 2/3 yard of 45"-wide fabric for a size S, M or L.
Wrap a length of elastic around your waist, or where you'd like the pants upper edge to sit, and stretch it a bit so it's comfortably tight. Cut the elastic allowing the ends to overlap 1".
From the fabric, cut one front and back. Flip over the fabric and cut a second front and back.
Position one front and back piece with right sides together, aligning the outer leg seam along the notches. Stitch the outer leg seam using a 1/2" seam allowance (1). Serge- or zigzag-finish each seam allowance independently; press open.
Align the inner leg seam and stitch in the same manner. Repeat to stitch the inner and outer leg seam on the remaining pieces.
Turn one leg right side out. Insert it into the remaining leg with right sides together and inner and outer seams aligned (2).
Pin the crotch seam, aligning the notches. Stitch the center-front seam beginning at the inseam and stitching toward the upper edge (3). Stitch the center-back seam, beginning at the inseam and stitching toward the upper edge. Turn the pants right side out.
Fold the pants upper edge 1/4" toward the wrong side; press. Fold the upper edge again 1" toward the wrong side; press. Stitch close to the fold, leaving 2" unstitched at the center back (4).
Insert a safety pin or elastic threader through one elastic end. Thread the elastic through the casing opening, making sure to not twist it. When the elastic ends meet, overlap them by 1". Zigzag stitch over the ends several times to secure. Stitch the casing opening shut, slightly stretching the pants to flatten the elastic if needed.
Fold the pant leg lower edges 1/4" toward the wrong side; press. Fold the lower edge another 1" toward the wrong side; press. Stitch close to the fold.
If working with fleece, don't use an iron to press open seams; finger-press only. For elastic casing and hem allowances, fold each raw edge 1 1/4" to the wrong side and stitch close to the raw edge to reduce bulk. There is no need to finish seams since fleece won't ravel. Using a serger set to a 4-thread overlock will help manage the bulk by stitching and finishing the seams in one step.
If working with knit, install a ballpoint or stretch needle onto the machine, or use a serger set to a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fuse 1 1/2"-wide strips of fusible knit interfacing to all seam allowances before sewing to eliminate shifting, rolling and puckering and to stabilize seams. There's no need to finish seams since knit won't ravel. Using a serger set to a 4-thread overlock stitch will help eliminate stretch and will stitch and finish seams in one step.